Day 1 | Sunday

6:40 am

This month starts on a Sunday. Fitting since I seem to have my most spiritual moments on the water. I guess the ocean’s my temple. Last night I had a late night, and I’m feeling it this morning. The suit didn’t want to get on, and I messed up and got sand in it. That’s going to hurt all day. I start off light, there’s no one else around and that feeling of competition you get from the crowds is totally absent. The waves are small, breaking over one another in a way that causes you to become totally absorbed in what you’re doing. Two hours go by before I look up again.

1:30 pm

It’s amazing how much time can change things. After a little lunch at the car I came back to the beach to find it really crowded. I don’t mind surfing in a crowd, I just didn’t seem to be in the mood for it today. After the third time of being cut off or just about mowed down by a new surfer I bailed. I just don’t have time for this today.